Tag Archives: designer

The Northern Youth – Fashion Show

With London Fashion Week coming to a close, now seemed like the perfect time to reflect on the phenomenal event of The Northern Youth Fashion Show!

A colossal effort was put into the university fashion show – with the aim to raise £30,000 for several refugee charities, and exhibit works from over 6 young designers from across the North.tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo5_1280tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo1_1280It wasn’t until arriving at the event, that the sheer size of the event really sunk in. The line of hundreds of people snaked across the centre of the University campus.tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo2_1280And after waiting for our turn in the queue, we were stamped with the Northern Youth logo, and we were ready to enter!tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo3_1280The lighting beamed from every direction, and started to set the mood for the night ahead.

The floor space was layered with a carpet-like fabric with the appearance of loft insulation, and different sized cubes and cuboids forms. tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo8_1280The internal space of the Central Hall was packed with an impressive number of people. With only a few empty spaces still available, we settled halfway up the seating on stage-left.tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo7_1280tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo10_1280The plans for the show snowballed quickly from a small event into one of mammoth proportions; resulting in the visiting speakers of the Vogue U.S. Editor-in-Chief, Anna Wintour, and first female Editor-in-Chief of the Guardian, Katharine Viner!tumblr_o2i5gbvv3c1qcam0lo9_1280Anna Wintour began her encouraging, and inspiring, speech referring to her connections with the University of York – which were more than you’d expect! She continued by thanking her niece for the invitation to attend the event, before turning her focus to the concepts of creative startups!

“Build what you can’t find, what you’re looking for…”tumblr_o2i74aphva1qcam0lo3_1280Wintour went on to emphasise that a young persons focus shouldn’t be too strongly on one specialty – one shouldn’t have a narrow way of thinking!

Her speech included many pearls of wisdom:

In an age of social media, we “shouldn’t let social media be a substitute for living.” 

“Work with the best, learn from the best. Make mistakes, and discoveries to make a future. Seek to be relevant, agile and able.”

“Don’t strive for fame. Because anyone can be famous without substance…”

Most importantly, whatever stage of life you’re at “get outside of yourself” – try and become “open to the problems and plights of others…” Whatever you do, give back.

Wintour concluded with a strong positive statement: “seize all the fantastic opportunities that lie ahead of you”!tumblr_o2i74aphva1qcam0lo5_1280Following the speech, was a Q&A open to the audience! This included Anna Wintour answering questions about the beauty of Yorkshire, politics and economics of the fashion industry; these included many a sassy comment, punctuated by poignant and well calculated opinions.tumblr_o2i74aphva1qcam0lo4_1280 Fashion has the power to change the world. “It has done fantastic work” in the world – to donate and raise money. It has the power to be “consistently philanthropic”, in truly an “awe inspiring” way! But fashion can also be “frivolous in a good way” – never forget that!

Wintour’s quick witted statement about finding your own personal style was one of the most memorable point in the evening, when she answered “Look in the mirror” once and awhile.tumblr_o2mzg182mt1qcam0lo7_12801And all too quickly, Wintour and Viner concluded their time on stage and took their seats in the front row.tumblr_o2i74aphva1qcam0lo6_1280The show was “produced by BAFTA award-winning director Adam Curtis and the line up of performers included Friendly Fires and Yorkshire talent Billie Marten who was recently tipped for success by the BBC Music Sound of 2016 team.”tumblr_o2i74aphva1qcam0lo8_1280And with the twangs of guitar strings, Billie Marten began to play, and the catwalk show began…tumblr_o2i9gtf1bu1qcam0lo1_1280tumblr_o2i9gtf1bu1qcam0lo2_1280tumblr_o2i9gtf1bu1qcam0lo3_1280tumblr_o2i9gtf1bu1qcam0lo4_1280

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tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo1_1280A short interlude ensued. This allowed for a change of performers, and a change of vibe; from Billie Marten to the DJ set. tumblr_o2mzg182mt1qcam0lo2_1280tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo5_1280tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo2_1280tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo4_1280tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo9_1280tumblr_o2ififcpyx1qcam0lo10_1280

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This was a mere snippet of all the glorious looks that were strutted through the hall! I’ll let you make up your own opinions of the various styles and different designs featured!tumblr_o2mzg182mt1qcam0lo3_1280And that concludes the finale of the captivating, and inspiring event! The show channeled urban youth of the North, and helped draw attention to the talent of designers and creatives from all over!

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Yves Saint Laurent Extended Exhibition

‘Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal’. The first ever exhibition – in the UK – of the French designer Yves Saint Laurent’s life, and work, came to a close less than a week ago.

I decided it was an opportunity too good to miss, so before the exhibition closed its doors for good, I took myself over to the French Château-style museum in the North of England to have a look!This is just a small look through the magnificent display put on by The Bowes Museum in collaboration with Fondation Pierre Bergé – so follow me through…Entrance to the museum is free for Art Fund card holders – and still relatively inexpensive for general admission – so what are you waiting for?

The exhibition was scheduled to end mid October, but due to high demand was extended until early November. And so, tickets in hand, we entered the large space exhibition space on the first floor.The Bowes Museum pride themselves on their information booklets. They are printed up and freely available to inform in great detail about different elements of the exhibition.Yves Saint Laurent’s famed work was not squeezed into the textiles room, or into the contemporary white cube gallery space that sits opposite. Style is Eternal spread out to fill both spaces and the room in between!

Rather than move the existing french decor interior pieces that live on permanent display in the center room, large black gauze sheeting draped down from the ceiling to floor.These were printed with information about Yves Saint Laurent brand as well as beautifully lettered quotes from the designer himself.The first room had a wall filled with a huge variation of hat designs. These are a clear demonstration of how important the silhouette are to the central designs of everything produced by Yves Saint Laurent.

Notice that these are all produced in a cream neutral fabric. These are a form of ‘toiles’ which are best described as a three-dimensional drawing. They are a crafted design of the original sketch before committing to specific fabrics and adornments. So these hats on display are crafted purely to experiment and test the dynamics of silhouette – hence the beautiful curves and lines!Other displays included original paper doll cut-outs and designs that Yves Saint Laurent himself created! These were designed in mini collections to fit a doll he would make himself from photographs of famous women in magazines.The first room of the exhibition collaborated with the already existing space of The Bowes Museum Textile Room. Inside glass cabinets were situated historical costume dating back decades at a time. The end of each cabinet then housed an iconic design piece from Yves Saint Laurent that tied in a motif of the cabinet in some way.This is another example of how ‘fashion’ is a temporal creation, constantly looping back through time for inspiration and design techniques.Between the aisles were framed examples of Yves Saint Laurent collection mock-ups. Featuring notes, and fabric swatches for different garb ensembles.After reaching the end of the room, we sat and watched a two part documentary which featured an interview with Yves Saint Laurent himself. The rest covered the methods of the work rooms and the design processes behind creating a collection.The center of The Textiles Room was transformed into a display case of original ‘toiles’.Displayed together, the mannequins allow you to really appreciate the craft and detail put into this form of a ‘draft’ tailoring. The work is perfected over and over again with the neutral fabric to achieve the perfect lines and fall on the model. The jackets even feature mock buttons!After we felt we’d had our fill of the first room, we hurried over to the main exhibition space that held mannequin after mannequin adorned in finished ensembles from a huge number of collections! From Sumptuous Luxury…To Art Pop…To Magic and Mystery. The costumes from Yves Saint Laurent were curated and exhibited by style rather than chronological collection. This really allowed each section of the room to make an enormous impact!Follow on from the mannequin displays and you reach a shocking pink coloured corridor that looped around the back of the room.This featured framed photographs and sketches from other artists that used Yves Saint Laurent as this inspiration and focus.

And after seeing an exhibition like this – why wouldn’t you?So in depth, so carefully curated, such a unique experience! I felt very lucky to wander around the first British exhibition of the famed designers work and life!

Hard Magazine: Trash Issue Shoot #3 (BTS)

The third photo shoot of tri-annually release HARD Magazine and the Fashion team returns to Orillo Studios situated in York. This final shoot of the S/S15 edition and it takes the term ‘Trash’ literally to incorporate trash into the making of the styled looks. Abstract and distorted to make the final photographs a surreal mess of dream-like movement and the realism of the disposable…An outtake look from the very beginning of the shooting day; stylist and textile craftsman Lizzy fitting the most sculptural design of the multiple outfits onto model of the day Milena. (We were very grateful for her gazelle like person to fill the place of HARD Magazine girl Hannah who was called away last minute to London for a different modeling job.) Set around a black, velvet, caged bodysuit, this is the handmade neck piece and netted shoulder rings (one wrapped with small pieces of bin liner bag). This time around in Orillo Studios, the Photography team brought enough lighting equipment to blind a person – and these suckers get hot! Bright lights for bright shoot ideas!Head of photography Thom brought in his newest baby (and we’re all a bit young for children, so by his position in the magazine you can guess I mean a new camera) to the studio. Now, we all know it’s rude to call it a Polaroid when it’s not – this Fujifilm Instax produced some cute momentos from the day at the photo shoot. First instant print off; Florence and myself in front of the white infinity wall being very un-model-like numpties!An insert of the traditional Fashion team picture – sitting happily chatting on the plush leather sofas while the styling of the first structured outtake outfit, and make up is being completed.The added pieces of the design by Lizzy included circular, free-standing constructions of stitched and sewn bin liner bag (both black and white), held together by more wire. Also featuring artist Amelia making model Milena’s face coated in multiple layers of foundation to create a nude base without excess colour or form. Even Milena’s eyebrows were layered with cover-up which would make her face become an almost blank canvas.Instant photograph #2 of the make-up process.After removing the different wire forms that had been fitted together on the model, she moved for lighting tests in front of the white infinity wall. These photos demonstrate the final result the nude make-up. (Below) Thom and Milena checking over instax print #3 of Milena standing straight in the middle of the middle.Lizzy fitting the other extracts of the structured outfit to Milena’s waist. Incorporating the same circular bin liner bag designed frames, as well as looser white bin liner wrapped wire for diversity of texture and colour.A supernatural shot of Thom with the gift of photography skill shining down on him – a rare photo indeed!As I’m sure you’ve guessed (if you’ve picked up a copy from our release today) the shoot escalated from sculptural to abstract bizarre (in the best way)! Balloons, bags, tape, string, a cream/powder mix and much more went into the final product of the outfits Milena ended up sporting by the end of the day!Fashion deputies mixed a talcum powder concoction together to make a white paste that was smeared on our model’s legs, before then adding a pair of tights, and another layer of paste. This might break the mystery of what exactly you’re seeing in these dream-like photographs, but the process itself was a bit crazy!Of course, members of the photography team are often found to leave their babies lying around the studio space. But, much like the cuckoo bird, other curious team members will sneak closer and fawn over the adorable contraptions – which leads to their overall safety in the wild and hectic place of the studio. (Animal documentary style over.) Snack and coffee breaks are essential in surviving the many hours of straight shooting and costume changes that take place throughout the one day booked into the studio space. And although they became very self conscious after realising I had photographed them – the Fashion deputies we pretty adorable take their five minutes with chocolate bars and gossip. Everyone from HARD Magazine is forever grateful for food and drink runs they volunteer to make which bring back survival necessities! The final collection of the six Fujifilm instax taken throughout the day of photoshoots for the Spring Edition of HARD Magazine. The extras include two snaps of different outfit changes and one of the camera owner and Head of Photography, Thom. One of the final outfits of the photo shoot (which has definitely been one of the more conceptual styled ones we have ever put together) made up entirely of balloons tied to Milena’s upper body! The strings are almost invisible while she holds her arms over her chest, but when she puts her hands up, the taut nature of the strings against her skin create a new abstract illusion.

There were a number of outfits and looks in between the outtake structural design from Lizzy and the balloons attire – but you’ll have to get your hands on a copy of the magazine and check out the full photo spread there! (Keep checking the website ~hardzine.org~ for the digital version to be uploaded later this month if you’re not in the York area.)